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Author Topic: Bison's Tales of Hobby Crafting  (Read 57771 times)

Undercovergeek

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Reply #225 on: April 24, 2022, 10:52:24 AM
Speed paint or normal army painter - I would have strongly advised against normal if you’d mentioned it - some people swear by them but I’ve had nothing but wallpaper paste or dirty water - storing them nose down worked but in the end I stuck with GW - there’s a reason they’re pricey



Silent Disapproval Robot

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Reply #226 on: April 24, 2022, 11:06:55 AM
I started with Citadel but I hate the pots so I branched out.  I mostly use Vallejo and AK.  I also really like the War Colors line from Scale 75.  I think the Colours of War line for Flames of War has been the most disappointing.  The colours look nice but the paints smell bad and they rub off easily.  Quality wise, I'd say either Army Painter, MIG, or Green Stuff World are the worst I've tried.  The contrast paints from Scale 75 were also a letdown.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2022, 11:09:22 AM by Silent Disapproval Robot »



Bison

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Reply #227 on: April 25, 2022, 11:49:25 AM
This first line was an absolute nightmare from a painting perspective. I encountered two major issues.

1. My painting experience is almost exclusively 28mm. There is a learning curve to painting at 15mm and below. I do not mind not having the best-looking figures on the first go at all. They will still play well on the table. The figures do not look bad from an arm's length distance. I think as I paint more lines of infantry certain things will shake out. Specifically, the little details and where to use highlights and shadows to accentuate or not. Also, I think stronger colors for highlights and shadow will help pop the miniature on the table.

2. Army Painter paints...I am not sure where to begin. Some of the colors performed well. The electric blue on the pants and the monster brown on the bedrolls. I think the blue is too bright for the effect I want but it works. At least the dang paint was applied in two easily controlled coats of paint. Every single other color was hot garbage. Watery messes of consistency that were impossible to control. They would flow off the surface and into the detail like a wash. Just a mess. I used the strong tone wash. I do not get the love of this product. It applied like a gel. It didn't settle into the recesses of the miniature. Did not do a particularly good job of creating contrast in my opinion. I even used some of their wash media to "help." It just created a more diluted mess of gel posing in the form of a wash.

Anyway, here is the front of the line infantry. The dark blue and the brown/tan paints were a mess. Lack of coverage and the paint spread all over the place. I touched them up to be sufficient for a back line rank. I did not deal with the facial hair.


The back of the line. I spent some time trying to clean up the details on the back of the miniatures. I think they turned out pretty decent and will look good. There is a good amount of little details to help bring color to the ranks that I will paint more deliberately in the future. I did touch up a few pieces not shown here like the bayonet scabbard a canteen or two I missed.


I couple of other random thoughts on this initial experiment.

1. I generally really like the sculptures. However, Warlord should have done separate Union and Confederate sprues for the game. I think most wargamers would prefer their Union troops to have kepi hats and not a mix of kepi and slouch caps. This mix works for the Confederates as their uniforms were not as standardized. The Iron Brigade special models have the Hardee cap which is a nice distinguishing feature. I do not own any but have seen them in person. I may spend the time to trim the brim of the slouch caps for the union into kepis but it's a lot of work to add to an already time-consuming process. I realize it would have cost Warlord and ultimately consumers more but I think most would have preferred a slight price increase to better distinguish the uniforms of the two armies.

2. I will prime my next sprues differently. I will try a black base primer and a zenithal highlight. I am not sure how much this will really help the shadowing at this scale but it will help deal with the microscopic recesses that stick out after painting if you prime in a light color only.

3. I like Vallejo and Citadel paints. Neither paint line is perfect but I am very comfortable working with them. I have some Vallejo Model Color paints coming to replace the Army Painter colors going forward. Also, I will just use the Citadel shades. I do not even know why I tried something new other than to try something new.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2022, 11:51:41 AM by Bison »



Undercovergeek

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Reply #228 on: April 25, 2022, 11:59:37 AM
Got to say they look great to me 



bbmike

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Reply #229 on: April 25, 2022, 12:01:13 PM
Got to say they look great to me

+1  :bigthumb:

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Doctor Quest

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Reply #230 on: April 25, 2022, 12:03:59 PM
I agree. Very nice work!

« Last Edit: April 25, 2022, 12:07:00 PM by Doctor Quest »

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bob48

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Reply #231 on: April 25, 2022, 12:07:04 PM
They look excellent!

“O Lord God, let me not be disgraced in my old days.”

'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers'


Bison

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Reply #232 on: April 25, 2022, 12:23:20 PM
Thank you, gentlemen, for the kind words.

The bigger issue of concern on this initial foray is the time it took to get them presentable. I think this single stand took around 4+ hours to fix. This is the factor I am actually really trying to address - reducing time spent per unit. The actual learning of time-saving painting techniques for 15mm will come with practice but better quality paints will certainly help. Or at least, I hope it will. :)



Silent Disapproval Robot

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Reply #233 on: April 26, 2022, 10:24:54 PM









Bison

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Reply #234 on: April 26, 2022, 11:08:17 PM
He does some really good work. I am considering using contrast paints still mostly for dark blue. There is a lot of detail and little indentations that are hard to get to. I think my biggest error was not doing a black primer first with a zenithal. I do it on 28mm and it helps hide a lot of little spaces even at that scale I think it would be very beneficial.

I painted another stand tonight and am just waiting for the shade to dry before doing some highlighting. I used Vallejo paints and it went much smoother but the jacket part of the model is just something I will need to get used to painting. I did use agrax earth shade which  I think is too dark and needs to be either thinned down or I need to use sepia wash next time. It's a learning process for sure. The good news is the minis will be played at my table with the kids. So I am not going for any awards or anything. I might even try to use the airbrush to knock out the base coat of blue on both the pants and the jackets. The other details like straps and blanket rolls are fairly easy with a brush. Anyway, I only have about 2780 troops left to paint so I have plenty to learn some techniques.



Bison

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Reply #235 on: April 27, 2022, 10:44:35 AM
I painted the latest trial Union line infantry with Vallejo Model Colors. The pants had already been done with Army Painter Electric Blue base coat. I did cut the paint time down from 4+ hours to closer to an hour. So making progress on that front. Eventually, I want to do batch painting to knock out the units faster.

A couple of observations.

1. Agrax Earthshade is too dark without being diluted a bit. I think given the amount of blue I may wash the uniform with a blue wash and then do the details or try Sepia for a lighter brown. Or try and learn how to use the diluted strong tone...decisions will need to be made.

2. I used Prussian Blue for the topcoat which is a great color. I also switched to flat black from a dark grey for the black leather straps and ammo pouches. It was too dark, particularly after being washed. I think I may lighten the blue tone a bit and switch back to a dark grey. It will make the highlighting and base colors pop a bit more.

Union front version 2. Overall I think they turned out pretty decent. The model is just a little darker than I wanted. So next version will be focused on slightly brightening the colors.


Union back version 2. Again the switch to a new line of paint colors changed some things. The brown/tans are a different color. Not bad. Just different. And the shade is a bit too strong for my taste. I think this is mostly because I am used to more subtle transitions from shadows to highlights on 28mm models. So this contrast is just much more stark. Perhaps that is better, I am not sure yet. Also, I do not like straight black leather. It requires another step of highlighting. And at this scale, I am much more prone to coloring outside the lines.



Undercovergeek

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Reply #236 on: April 27, 2022, 01:21:38 PM
Again these look great too

There’s a lot of detail for the size of the scale



bob48

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Reply #237 on: April 27, 2022, 01:23:09 PM
They do look very good. They are, I take it, 15mm?

“O Lord God, let me not be disgraced in my old days.”

'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers'


Bison

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Reply #238 on: April 27, 2022, 01:28:32 PM
Again these look great too

There’s a lot of detail for the size of the scale

There is a lot of detail which is great. However, it is also contributing the my nitpicking. If it’s there, I want to paint it.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2022, 01:31:30 PM by Bison »



Bison

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Reply #239 on: April 27, 2022, 01:30:55 PM
They do look very good. They are, I take it, 15mm?

They are 13.5mm from foot to eye level so not a true 15mm scale. This one of the major criticisms of the product line. It creates a proprietary market and does not lend itself to gamers using other 15mm figures they may already own or like to purchase.