Armchair Dragoons Forums
Other Gaming => Arts & Crafts & 3D Printing => Topic started by: judgedredd on May 02, 2022, 04:35:07 PM
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It's completed
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And more
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And lastly
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That is very nice, JD!
Thanks for sharing the pix.
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You're welcome and thank you.
Modelling is a double edged sword for me. I love building them - but painting does tend to stress me out somewhat. Particularly mixing and thinning. When I see I have to mix paint, I tend to try and find a colour that's close enough. I didn't with this - I did mix to get the colour required, but honestly I'm not sure I managed it - worse, though, I over estimated how much paint I would need and ended up through a bit away - not ideal when the paints I can get are so small (in the UK, we're only allowed (or at least we can only buy) 10ml Tamiya paint bottles. None of that 25ml bottled stuff you can get outside the EU.
So building is a pleasure - painting, no so much, though I do love the end result almost every time.
Oh and decals...they're a pain. So many - particularly for modern jets. But even this I found had a load of tiny little ones. You think "What's the point - no-one will see" but actually when they're on, they do make a difference in giving the model some life
Overall though, a hobbly I generally really enjoy...wouldn't be a hobby otherwise, would it ;D
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That does look nice JD.
The center drop tank is an unusual shape. I've not seen one like that before.
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Yes, it is unusual.
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It's apparently called the 150 gallon flat drop tank
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I found this mentioned online
Roger Freeman, Mighty Eighth War Manual, Fighter external tanks, US Gallons nominal/actual, drop tanks available to the 8th Air Force
75/84, Steel, US, P-47 and P-51 originally for P-39
108/108, Steel, UK, P-47
108/108, Paper, UK, P-47 and P-51, originally for Hurricanes
110/110, Steel, US P-51, intended for P-47 use.
150/165, Steel, US, P-47, "flat" tank
150/165, Steel, UK, P-47, "flat" tank
165/165, Steel, US, P-38, ferry tank, unpressurised, used up to 20,000 feet.
200/205, Paper, US, P-47, ferry tank, unpressurised.
200/215, Steel, UK, P-47.
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^ any day that you learn something new is a day not (entirely) wasted.
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Nice work JD.
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Sold on eBay.
Who would've thunked people would buy ready made models! I don't understand it because from my perspective all the fun is in the making.
But I'm glad these people are out there :notworthy:
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Do you use any set or softener products for the waterslide decals?
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Sold on eBay.
Who would've thunked people would buy ready made models! I don't understand it because from my perspective all the fun is in the making.
But I'm glad these people are out there :notworthy:
I agree with the enjoyment of modeling. But that is pretty great you sold it and made space to buy and build a new one!
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Do you use any set or softener products for the waterslide decals?
Yes I use micro set and micro sol... one helps you get the decal seated and the other softens it - I can never remember which is which until I go to use them
That process is another that sometimes goes wrong for me... they can be softened to the point they disintegrate
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I think sol breaks it down
It hates GW washes - I always paint in washes, space marines shoulder pad done, sol on decal, decal on shoulder pad, almost instantly took the wash off - some very creative damage and dirt details added to those 6 marines!
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Did you use gloss varnish on the pauldron first? I have been watching a number of videos on water slide decals. I am getting ready to do my space marines but it's been years since I have used decals. I have some Mr. Mark Setter and Softener coming in the mail. First, apply the setter (glue) and then apply the softener to then the edges and make it look painted on the model. Or at least that is the premise. I watched an hour and a half youtube video of a guy comparing and using like 10 different decal products.
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No varnish to my detriment :tickedoff:
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When I do decalling, I put down a light coat of spray varnish first. Then mark setter. Then apply the decal and use a cotton bud to wick away excess liquid. I let it dry for a bit then apply mark fit. Then another coat of spray varnish followed by some weathering/ blending to make it appear like it's a part of the paint job.
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When I do decalling, I put down a light coT of spray varnish first. Then mark setter. Then any the decal and use a cotton bud to wick away excess liquid. I let it dry for a bit Then apply mark fit. Then another coat of spray varnish followed by sine weathering/ blending to make it appear like it's a part of the paint job.
Yeah - I put a coat of varnish on first. This helps reduce the shine effect the decal has on the model, then use the softner to bed the decal on and finally I often use either a matte or light sheen finish to seal the lot.
bold is me - I am impatient which is probably why mine go so wrong. I need to leave them sitting on the model a bit before go softening them because often what happens is it starts moving again - and probably more often than not, that's when I rip the decal because I've softened it, it's moving, I move it back BOOM - ripped decal.
More patience is required - I'm waaaaay too hasty with my model building.
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Beautiful looking model JD. Nice work!
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Thanks W8